Suminagashi, the Japanese Art of Marbling (also the title of a book by Anne Chambers) was the inspiration for the kimono made by Rachel O’Connell for Blue Patch’s exhibition ‘Pull My Thread’ at Brantwood near Coniston Water, Lake District this summer. The feather light kimono and obi were made from Japanese habotai silk, a transparent and paper thin fabric that carries the double layered ink marbling beautifully. Truly marbled art.
Suminagashi means ‘spilled ink’ but this is not a slap dash affair, it is a carefully planned piece of work by Rachel. The original idea of a kimono was inspired by a visit to the V&A exhibition ‘Kyoto to Catwalk’ in 2021. Further research uncovered an ‘all-paper informal kimono’ (Morojifu Jinbei) made by Kazuko Satō of morojifu fabric which is woven from vertical and horizontal paper threads. Also a 13th century poem in Anne Chambers book, written on papyrus and decorated with Suminagashi marbling. See the reference work on the Crafts Council website.
The theme for the work was Chōwa or harmony, an indication of the breath work done in mindful practice and the harmony between air and water. Ruskin’s former home Brantwood sits on the edge of Coniston Water in the Lake District and is surrounded by terraced gardens that rise in tiers. The organic pattern is reminiscent of water flowing over pebbles, glimpses of aquatic plants in the blue, and rain drops. The ink flows with the water creating movement and shape.
As with all of Rachel’s work, the materials were consciously chosen. The Japanese habotai silk was end-of-roll, deadstock. It is lined in repurposed vintage muslin cotton tablecloth. The belt tie has tassels that were repurposed from theatrical textiles donated to Blue Patch members by the Royal Ballet and Opera. Rachel has also used ballet shoes from this project to make marbled leather key rings, earrings and accessories.
She says “The thick leather from the base of the ballet slippers is first thinned, cleaned and prepped, then marbled and made into small accessories and jewellery. I’m working on designs to incorporate the synthetic and cotton layers of each slipper too. It’s slow deconstructing and repurposing, but I love that each slipper is saved from landfill.”
Rachel’s approach to design has changed since repurposing the leather ballet slippers. When she upcycles, she designs from the material. It informs her use of it.
Marbled art
Her marbled leather work uses virgin veg tanned leather that is carefully sourced. It’s a renewable material and Rachel has researched its sustainability. She uses repurposed leather for community and school projects. Even the fabric labels she uses in her cushions are made from recycled materials. And she has made marbled clocks from recycled coffee cups and the leftover plywood from her studio build. She is a prime example of a small sustainable maker who is making changes in her business to work towards net zero.
“Wonderful to be part of this organisation, who advocate for sustainable makers, supporting our effort to become net zero and tirelessly promote our work. I have made inspiring connections and friendships through Blue Patch and excited to see what collaborations with other artists produce.”
Rachel @rocworxdesigns
Buy Rachel’s work directly from her website at www.rocworx.co.uk or take part in one of her courses at craft fairs, museums and colleges to learn an endangered craft. Visit our sustainable business directory to see work from Rocworx and other sustainable makers for the home.
